The simplicity of indie patterns sometimes lulls me into a false sense of security. Not because they are simplistic, but just because I expect a pattern or pattern variations that go together. Simplicity 1692 is not like that. Views A and B are largely unrelated to views C and D. A and B are longer and the gathering makes the neckline of A and B far wider and the sides, can’t be matched as views A and B are also just a bit wider. All of that is before you get to the differences between cut on sleeves and set in sleeves. A and B have a 4 tuck front and 4 tuck back waist/hip area. That is pretty much the end of what they have in common with C and D. This disappointingly means that each pair must be treated as a unique garment in terms of fitting and alterations, requiring twice as many muslins and twice as much prep work. In case you were wondering no the backs do not match either. The shoulders are quite different.
(The fun thing about French seams is that you can just sew on the inside of the garment test it out inside out and then turn it right side out when you have it the way you want it and finish the seam.)
As I write I’m sitting in a recliner resting my foot as I have Achilles tendonitis. I’m hoping it will go away ASAP, but need to refrain from activities like wheel spinning and machine sewing for a while. I also need to avoid standing on it for long periods, which means that even doing large amounts of alterations or cutting is out. This may throw off my overall sewing goals for the year, but better to be cautious for a little while than have the problem long term. Still I have repeatedly muslined the pattern for views C and D. This took so many more muslins than any, but my earliest makes. Probably 4 and even then I was taking in 6 or 8 inches at each side and don’t have the fit in the chest quite right. Likely I should go back to a smaller size and start the process over again. Silly ease in Big 4 patterns.
Having done so many muslins meant my first wearable muslin wasn’t finished until the end of September. As I approached making it, I realized I didn’t want to use the lovely vintage poppy linen as it was a little small and would need piecing and likely wouldn’t get worn since I’m not very fond of patterned tops. The mustard linen was out too as that is going to be made from view A/B. Likewise the black and white floral satin. That left the aqua floral, which again would be patterned and which seemed to tell me it too wanted sleeves since there was enough fabric and fall is already here. What to do? I began to look through my stash in hopes of finding something I wouldn’t mind destroying if it went poorly (given I’d created at least three muslins from Swedish tracing paper) and wouldn’t mind wearing if it went well. In the process I came across a denim look chambray dress I’d thrifted with the intention of taking it in. Realizing I hadn’t altered it because I wouldn’t wear it I swiped the dress for muslin fabric. The lower portion of the button placket serves as a design element down the back of the top. My invisible zipper came out a little bit off. All of the hems were done with my rolled hem foot rather than folding and folding again. This was my first go at fabric covered buttons and I have to say they were a breeze. The button loops are a great feature, so much nicer than button holes that can stretch and gape.
The top came out fairly well, though it may need a sway back adjustment and possibly still something more for a hollow chest. The bulge of fabric may be a problem that needs to be fixed as well or just the result of the gathering apron I’d been wearing just before these pictures were taken. I should have used the inside of the fabric rather than the outside as the color is more even, which I prefer to the distressed look of the right side of the fabric. The pattern may be good. I’m still not sold on it. A new “traced” version with the sides of my altered version, the neckline from C/D and then the armscythes from A/B tweaked onto it sits on the table waiting. I sort of expect bad things, but sometimes when I do these crazy changes it works out alright. A proper muslin will tell, but…I can’t sew..
I’m not sure if this will have to pass for number eight of my #2018makenine or if I’ll be able to make another version. We’ll see.