On Two Darts and Learning things

Garden Tunic 2015-08-30 004

Green Gardens after a day of gardening, housework, freezer defrosting, and kid chasing.  Wrinkles were unavoidable.  Green Gardens is that shirt you unexpectedly make when you realize you don’t want to test things out with linen and are not interested in sewing a muslin in muslin.  I moved the flowers off the bust apex, but apparently I didn’t move them quite far enough.  My husband complimented me when I came downstairs wearing this outfit.  Really of all things? He doesn’t often notice my clothes and with the floral print I’d thought he (while knowing better than to say so) might think it looked like a couch or curtains.  Maybe he’s just happy it isn’t pink.  Maybe my aquafit class is finally paying off.    But this is where I ended up.  Not where I started.

The FBA (or SBA) can seem like a slippery snake.  It’s a slow progression of tips and techniques not a single thing.  Each top is different.

The Savannah Cami needed to have a dart added.

The Washi needed to have a dart moved and increased.

The Sugar Pop Top needed the same, but responded well (apart from my hurrying) to a Y-FBA, which helped with the giant dart, but may have added more shoulder than I’d like.

The Violette Field Threads Ginger needs to have a bust dart added then a waist dart moved and adjusted.  (This second part is still intimidating me.)

I’m learning.  My darts are decent, but seem susceptible to the dreaded dart bubble.  I realize (thanks to a series of posts on the Curvy Sewing Collective) that is due to the size of the darts.   Too much fabric is being taken up to allow them to behave.    The long sleeved version of the Washi is what originally sold me on the pattern and it’s becoming long sleeve season again.  Having made two Washi dresses and a toile Washi tunic.  I’ve got the fit worked out.  It is very comfortable and quick to sew.   Some lovely purple linen/cotton blend is set to become my first fall dress, but that dart bubble will be even worse with this heavier fabric and with the long sleeves a Y FBA that adds to the shoulders could ruin the fit.  Welcome the two dart FBA.

The two dart FBA is just like a normal FBA, but after completing your FBA you split the darts (Collette has a great tutorial on splitting the dart) giving you two much smaller darts and…

Two Dart close up

no dart bubbles. There was no way this would be tested on my linen, but I have since sewn said linen (post coming) and recommend this.  If you are new to fitting or looking to perfect your fit you might want to check out my Pinterest Board on Fitting and Alterations where you can find the posts that have helped me.

Now to tackle the waist dart adjustment and the knit FBA.

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One Response to On Two Darts and Learning things

  1. Pingback: MMM on Vacation | Logan Stitches

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